From The June 2005, North Shore Magazine If you have ever been to any of the come-and-go restaurants in the building that now houses Opa! Estiatorio, you will be amazed at the transformation. The space has been transformed into a Greek village. The chairs look like they belong in front of an Athenian taverna, the center of the huge dining room is given over to ceiling-high support timbers with the look of sailing masts, while overhead the white sails billow from the ceiling. There are a couple of fireplaces for cold weather and a patio along Bear Lake for warm-weather dining. The menu is an almanac of Greek fare, including saganaki, the Greek cheese doused with Metaxa brandy and flamed to the cry of "Opa!" The flaming cheese is just one of several starters, or mezethes, meant to be eaten like Spanish tapas. Begin with a few spreads. Salmon roe (taramasalata) is milder than many, roasted eggplant puree (melitzanosalata) has a similarly mild bite, while even the garlic spread (skorthalia) goes easy when spread on pita wedges or thick bread. Other choices include baked feta cheese with peppers and tomatoes, fried calamari, gyros or Greek sausage with onions and peppers. Grape leaves are filled with tangy ground beef and lamb, as well as seasoned rice. Baked lima beans (giganthes) may sound ordinary, but in a seasoned tomato sauce they are delicious. There are a half dozen soups and salads, as well as side orders of comestibles such as Greek fries with feta cheese; roasted potatoes with lemon; or creamy egg-lemon and rice soup. For entrées, shrimp are fired up on the grill and plated with a collection of simmered vegetables, much like a Greek version of ratatouille. Those vegetables can be found with other entrées, including the fresh fish of the day or roasted chicken with a deep smoked taste and moist flesh. As for the fish, we tasted sea bass, brought out black-skinned from the grill, then de-boned tableside, brushed with olive oil and splashed with lemon juice. Red snapper is the other half of what Opa! prepares fresh on a daily basis. The usual Greek restaurant specialties of moussaka, pastitsio and the like can be had individually. Diners can also combine small plates of the major house entrées, creating a personalized selection. For dessert, the baklava has a bit too much cinnamon and cloves for my taste, but the Greek custard called galaktabouriko is perfect. The dining room and service are clearly family-friendly, as are the prices. Opa! Estiatorio has a K/RATING of 19.5/20. - Sherman Kaplan North Shore Magazine